When pipes freeze and burst, it can send water spraying everywhere in seconds. If you have plumbing that looks like it’s been torn open by ice pressure, the first and most urgent step is to shut off the water supply to stop the flood. After that, you’ll want to remove the broken section of pipe and install a replacement.
Water expands as it freezes. If water in your pipe can’t drain or move, the ice formation presses outward against the pipe walls until a small crack appears. Once the weather warms up or you run water again, that crack turns into a major leak. This is particularly common with exterior fixtures—like a hose bib or frost-proof hydrant—when a garden hose remains attached in winter. The water can’t drain from the inside portion of the faucet, so freezing leads to expansion and rupture.
Recognizing the Problem
A burst pipe might be obvious if you see water spraying or dripping. In some cases, though, you may discover the issue only when you turn on your faucet the following spring or summer and water leaks inside the wall. Typical places for freeze breaks include:
- The back end of an exterior hose bib (known as the frost-free portion).
- Sections of copper or other piping in unheated crawl spaces or attics.
- Any place where the pipe is poorly insulated.
If you’re dealing with water damage or noticing mold or mildew spots in a wall, you may have a hidden rupture. Turn off the water at the main shutoff valve, open a faucet to relieve residual pressure, and search for the actual leak.
Tools and Parts You’ll Need
In the video, the suggested repair involves soldering copper pipe. If you don’t know how to solder, you can still fix a burst using push-to-connect fittings (like SharkBite or similar). However, if you’re comfortable soldering, you’ll want:
- Tubing cutters or a hacksaw (tubing cutters make cleaner cuts).
- A replacement piece of copper pipe (same diameter as existing).
- Two couplings or a slip coupling (if needed).
- Flux, lead-free solder, and a torch (if you’re soldering).
- Teflon tape or thread sealant (if you’re replacing a threaded hose bib).
- A heat-proof shield or damp rag to protect surrounding walls from heat.
- Wet/dry vacuum or towels if water is still present.
Quick Steps for Repairing a Burst Pipe
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Shut Off the Water
Go to your main valve or meter and turn the supply off. If the burst is on an exterior faucet, check if there’s a separate shutoff inside. Relieve pressure by opening any faucet or spigot. -
Remove Any Damaged Section
Use tubing cutters or pliers to flatten out the pipe if it’s badly deformed, then carefully cut out the split. Cut at least half an inch beyond both ends of the crack to ensure you remove the weak portion. -
Measure and Dry-Fit
Determine the length of new pipe needed, including the couplings. Sometimes you’ll need slip couplings if you can’t move the pipes up or down to insert a normal coupling. Dry-fit the new piece to verify the length. -
Clean and Prep
If you’re soldering:- Clean the outside of the existing pipe with an emery cloth or fitting brush.
- Clean the inside of the couplings and the replacement pipe.
- Apply a thin layer of flux to both surfaces.
If you’re using push-to-connect fittings, ensure the pipe ends are smooth and free of burrs, and mark the insertion depth.
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Solder or Connect
- Soldering: Heat the joint with a torch. Once the flux sizzles, apply lead-free solder until it fully rings the joint. Watch for the solder to flow nicely around the entire circumference. Avoid overheating or letting the flame roam onto drywall or studs.
- Push-to-Connect: Push each fitting onto the pipe until it clicks into place. Double-check insertion lines to confirm it’s fully seated.
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Turn Water On and Check for Leaks
Slowly open the main valve again. Keep an eye on the new joints for drips. Run water through the line to confirm everything is sealed.
Replacing a Frost-Proof Faucet
If the burst involves a frost-proof hose bib, consider whether it was installed incorrectly or if you left a hose attached. Frost-proof faucets have a long stem, shutting water off inside the heated part of the house. Here’s how to swap it out:
- Unscrew the old faucet (it may have Teflon tape or pipe dope on threads).
- Make sure the new faucet is the same length and diameter.
- Wrap Teflon tape on the male threads of the new faucet.
- Carefully screw it into the drop-ear elbow behind the wall.
- Tighten until snug, but don’t overtighten.
- Turn on the water to test.
If it’s soldered in, you’ll need to remove the old faucet with a torch or simply cut the pipe behind the faucet and attach the new one with a coupling.
Using Slip Couplings
Slip couplings differ from standard couplings because they don’t have an internal stop. That means you can slide them fully onto the pipe, align your new piece, then slide them back over the joint. This is extremely handy in tight spaces where you can’t move pipes enough to fit a normal coupling. Keep in mind that you’ll need to measure carefully so you don’t end up with a gap that’s too large or a piece that’s too short.
Tips to Avoid Frozen Pipes Next Time
- Disconnect Hoses: Never leave a hose attached to an exterior faucet in freezing weather.
- Check the Slope: For frost-proof faucets, ensure the plumber installed it at a slight downward angle to drain water out.
- Insulate Exposed Lines: Wrap foam insulation around pipes in attics, crawl spaces, or exterior walls.
- Drip Faucets in Extreme Cold: Allowing a slow trickle can keep water moving. Make sure you open both hot and cold lines slightly.
- Use Heat Tape: In particularly cold climates, attach heat tape to vulnerable pipes.
Protecting Surroundings During Soldering
Open flames near wood framing or drywall can be risky. Always keep a damp rag or heat-proof mat behind the area you’re soldering. Light sprays of water can help keep wood or insulation from scorching. Also, keep a small fire extinguisher nearby if you’re new to soldering. Many professional plumbers have learned from others’ mistakes that a quick meltdown can happen in seconds.
When to Call a Professional
You can handle many small or moderate burst-pipe fixes at home. However, call a professional plumber if:
- The burst is in a difficult-to-reach spot (deep within walls, floors, or ceilings).
- Water damage is extensive, and you need help with remediation.
- The line is part of a complex system (like high-pressure steam lines) or near gas lines.
- You’re uncomfortable with soldering and push-to-connect fittings aren’t an option.
Post-Repair Checklist
- Turn on faucets and flush toilets in the area to clear the line of any leftover flux or metal shavings.
- Check for any slow drips around the new joints.
- Patch or re-insulate the area if you opened a wall.
- Document what was replaced in case you sell your home or need references later.
- Clean and store your tools properly so you’re ready for the next project.
Final Thoughts
A burst pipe might feel overwhelming when you’re watching water gush into your house, but with a bit of knowledge and preparation, you can fix it quickly. Once you identify the damaged section, cutting it out and installing a fresh piece of pipe—whether you solder or use push-to-connect fittings—can restore water flow in no time. The main keys are turning off the water fast, cleaning and prepping the pipe carefully, and being safe if you use a torch.
Also, remember that if your exterior faucet froze and burst, it’s likely an installation issue or a matter of forgetting to remove a garden hose. Avoid that headache in the future by winterizing your outdoor faucets and lines. A little forethought can save you from dealing with messy floods and expensive drywall repairs.
If you enjoyed these tips, check out Roger Wakefield’s channel for more plumbing advice. When in doubt, always choose safety first and consider calling a licensed plumber if you’re unsure about any step. With the right approach, you’ll find that plumbing repairs—even for something as dramatic as a freeze break—are manageable for most homeowners.
