Do Plumbers ACTUALLY Hate This?

In this post, I’ll walk you through where each system shines (and where it doesn’t), how to make dependable connections, the smartest way to rough‑in a tub/shower valve, and a realistic snapshot of costs, tools, and time so you can choose confidently.

What Plumbers “Hate” (and What We Actually Care About)

I’ve heard the line a thousand times: “Real plumbers are going to hate this.” Usually it pops up when someone reaches for push‑to‑connect fittings, swaps copper for PEX, or roughs in a bathroom with a crimp tool instead of a torch. Here’s the truth:

• We don’t hate PEX, copper, or push‑to‑connect. We hate leaks.

• Leaks usually come from technique, not the product. Burrs cutting O‑rings, under‑inserted pipe, mis‑placed crimp/clamp rings, oval cuts, overheated solder joints—those are the real culprits.

• Right product + right place + right technique = no callbacks. That’s the whole game.

If you follow the steps below, you’ll earn the one thing every plumber values: a system that stays dry.

PEX vs. Copper: A Practical Comparison

The big picture

Copper

• Pros: Rigid and durable, takes heat well, rodents won’t chew it, tight bends stay put, great for exposed stub‑outs and tub spout runs that should be rock‑solid and full‑flow.

• Cons: Material cost is higher, soldering near wood/insulation requires fire protection and skill, pinhole corrosion can happen in some water chemistries, and working in tight walls with a torch can be stressful.

PEX

• Pros: Fast to run, fewer fittings in long sweeps, much cheaper tubing than copper, no flame required, great in remodels and cold weather (freeze resilience).

• Cons: Needs the right joining method, can be damaged by UV and rodents, and certain fittings reduce the internal diameter, which matters in high‑flow paths.

Where each shines

• Use copper for the tub spout drop (you want maximum flow and rigidity), exposed stub‑outs that shouldn’t wiggle, and any spot where a rigid, straight shot is an advantage.

• Use PEX for branch lines, manifold runs, and remodels where speed and no‑flame convenience matter.

Push‑to‑Connect Fittings: When They’re Smart—and When They Aren’t

Push‑to‑connect (often called by the well‑known brand name “SharkBite”) has saved more flooded kitchens and midnight service calls than most people realize. They’re code‑recognized, pressure‑rated, and reusable with the proper release tool. But you must install them correctly.

How to do it right

1. Square cuts only. Use a tubing cutter designed for the material.

2. Deburr and chamfer. On copper, ream the inside, lightly bevel and smooth the outside. On PEX, ensure a clean, square cut—no ragged edges.

3. Mark insertion depth. Most ½‑inch fittings seat about 1 inch. Mark the pipe so you can visually confirm it’s fully home.

4. Keep it clean. Dirt or copper shavings can nick the O‑ring and create a slow, delayed leak.

5. Use the tube liner correctly. Many push‑to‑connect fittings include a tube stiffener for PEX—leave it in for PEX, remove it for copper/CPVC when the instructions require.

Where I won’t use them

• Buried behind finished walls as a permanent solution. They’re wonderful for transitions, serviceable spots, and temporary work, but for a concealed, final connection I prefer solder, press, or crimp/clamp that lives quietly in the wall for decades.

Safety First: Working Around Insulation and Framing

Open flame and framing can be a dangerous combo.

• Fire blankets are mandatory when soldering near studs, paper‑faced insulation, or subfloor. Cover combustible surfaces generously.

• Mind the paper facer. Unfaced fiberglass tends to char; paper facers can ignite and spread. If flame control makes you nervous, this is a strong vote for PEX and mechanical connections.

• Wear safety glasses—cutting copper throws tiny shards, and PEX cutters can pinch.

The Tub/Shower Valve Rough‑In (PEX + Copper Where It Counts)

Here’s the layout I recommend for most bathrooms:

1. Set blocking at the proper height (often around 36 inches to the valve center, but follow the valve manufacturer’s instructions and tub/shower specs). Secure the valve body firmly.

2. Inlets (hot/cold): PEX is perfect here. Use female adapters or valve bodies with integral PEX ports to connect.

3. Shower riser: PEX up the wall is fine if you terminate at a metal drop‑ear elbow that screws to framing. That drop ear gives your shower arm something solid to bite into so the head doesn’t wobble.

4. Tub spout drop: Run copper. Why? Two reasons:
   • Rigidity. People lean on spouts; copper doesn’t flex.

   • Flow. Many PEX‑B insert fittings reduce internal diameter. If you restrict the spout path, you can get back‑pressure that bleeds water up to the shower head when filling the tub. A full‑size copper drop keeps the water where it belongs.

Pro tip: If you’re committed to PEX on the spout path, PEX‑A with expansion fittings maintains a full‑size flow path far better than PEX‑B with insert fittings. Still, I prefer copper for that last vertical run for rock‑solid results.

PEX‑A vs. PEX‑B: What’s the Real Difference?

PEX‑A (Expansion)

• Joins via expansion—you temporarily expand the pipe and sleeve, insert the fitting, and the pipe contracts to seal.

• Maintains internal diameter through fittings better than insert‑style systems.

• More flexible and friendly in tight spaces.

• Tooling cost is higher (the expander itself isn’t cheap), but pros love the speed and flow performance.

PEX‑B (Crimp/Clamp)

• Joins with rings (copper crimp or stainless clamp).

• Lower tool cost and easy for first‑timers.

• Stiffer than PEX‑A.

• Insert fittings can reduce internal diameter, which is fine for sinks and typical branches, but avoid restricting high‑flow paths like tub spouts.

If you’re a homeowner making a handful of connections, PEX‑B is budget‑friendly and perfectly reliable. If you’re building out a whole house or want the best possible flow through fittings, the PEX‑A system earns its reputation.

Crimp vs. Clamp Rings, and Brass vs. Polymer Fittings

You’ll see two ring styles for PEX‑B and two fitting materials. Here’s how to choose:

Rings: Copper Crimp vs. Stainless Clamp

• Copper crimp rings tighten with a dedicated crimp tool. They’re fast and proven. Always verify with the go/no‑go gauge—it’s your quality check.

• Stainless clamp (pinch) rings tighten with a ratcheting tool from one side (great in tight corners). Some “pro” rings include a plastic spacer that prevents sliding and sets perfect edge‑to‑ring spacing—handy if things like to creep while you position parts.

Fittings: Brass vs. Polymer

• Brass: Durable and confident‑inspiring, especially near mechanical stresses. Costs more.

• Polymer: Budget‑friendly and code‑approved. Many include molded depth tabs that help you position rings within the recommended 1/8″–1/4″ of the fitting shoulder—slick for consistency.

My field rule: Brass for vulnerable or high‑temp spots; polymer is fine for typical concealed branches when installed correctly.

Technique That Prevents Leaks (The Checklist Pros Live By)

• Cut square. Angle cuts = uneven O‑ring loading or crooked rings.

• Deburr/ream. On copper, ream inside and smooth the outside—your fingernail shouldn’t catch. On PEX, ensure a clean face.

• Mark depth. Especially for push‑to‑connect. If the mark doesn’t disappear into the fitting, you’re not seated.

• Place the ring right. For crimp/clamp: 1/8″–1/4″ from the fitting shoulder, centered, and no ring overhang.

• Squeeze once, correctly. Use the go/no‑go gauge on crimped joints; on clamp tools with indicator lights, ratchet until you hit spec.

• Support your fittings. Drop‑ear elbows for shower heads, secure valves to blocking, and strap long PEX runs to prevent rubbing.

• Avoid mixing systems accidentally (e.g., PEX‑A sleeves on PEX‑B insert fittings). Follow the manufacturer’s pairing.

• Respect UV limits and rodents. Don’t store PEX in the sun; protect vulnerable areas if critters are a concern.

• Pressure‑up smart. Open the main slowly to let lines fill without a hammer. Have someone upstairs ready to shout “cut it!” if something weeps.

Tools and Startup Costs (Realistic and Minimal)

You don’t need a rolling warehouse to rough‑in a bathroom. Here’s a practical setup:

PEX‑B kit (bare minimum):

• ½‑in/¾‑in crimp tool: ~$50

• PEX cutter: ~$10
  Total: ~$60

Copper solder kit (bare minimum):

• MAP‑gas torch: ~$57

• Copper pipe cutter: ~$19

• Cleaning brush/emery: ~$14

• Fire blanket: ~$18
  Total: ~$108

These numbers aren’t gospel—prices vary—but they reflect what I see homeowners spending to get started.

Rough‑In Walkthrough: A Clean, Speedy Sequence

1. Plan your heights and centerlines. Mark valve center (commonly ~36″), spout height, and shower arm.

2. Install blocking and mount the valve plumb and square.

3. Transition wisely. If you’re tying into existing copper, a push‑to‑connect coupling can bridge to PEX quickly. Prep the copper like a pro: ream, deburr, mark depth, seat fully.

4. Run PEX to the valve inlets (hot on left, cold on right). Use brass or polymer adapters as the valve requires.

5. Shower riser: Run PEX to a metal drop‑ear elbow and screw it to framing.

6. Tub spout drop: Run copper down from the valve to a solidly anchored 90/stub‑out.

7. Crimp or clamp every joint with the right ring placement and verify each crimp with the gauge.

8. Cap or use a test plug at the shower arm and spout as needed for pressure‑up.

9. Pressurize slowly. Listen for flow to stop, then bring it to full pressure. Inspect every joint with a bright light and dry paper towel.

Cost Snapshots You Can Actually Use

For a simple tub/shower rough‑in similar to the setup above, here’s a realistic comparison based on typical parts pricing:

• PEX approach (with a couple of push‑to‑connect transitions): $61.58 in parts.

• All‑copper equivalent: $79.36 in parts.

• Difference: ~29% more for the copper build in this small scope (about $18 extra).

That gap isn’t huge on a tiny project. But scale the job and the material delta grows. For example, if you extend the run another 20 feet with a tee and additional lines:

• Additional PEX materials: $57.66

• Additional copper materials: $111.16

• Now you’re nearly 2× on the add‑on.

Time is money, too. PEX routinely wins on speed—fewer fittings, no flame setup, no purging moisture before solder, less staging around combustibles. For pros, that’s labor saved. For homeowners, it’s fewer hours with the water off.

A quick reality check: material savings don’t justify cutting corners. Spend the extra minutes to deburr, mark, gauge, and support. That’s what keeps the savings from evaporating into repairs.

Common Mistakes That Cause Callbacks (Avoid These)

• Under‑insertion on push‑to‑connect. If your depth mark is still visible, you’re asking for a leak.

• Skipping deburring. A sharp copper edge can slice an O‑ring; a ragged PEX edge can prevent a proper seal.

• Ring in the wrong spot. Too close to the pipe end or too far from the fitting shoulder equals a weak joint.

• No go/no‑go check. The gauge takes five seconds and saves five gallons (or more).

• PEX on the tub spout path with insert fittings. That flow restriction can drive water up the riser and out the shower head while you’re trying to fill the tub.

• Unsecured drop‑ear/shower arm. A floppy shower head is more than an annoyance—it stresses joints over time.

• Pressurizing at full blast immediately. Bring pressure up gently and listen; a slow fill is a free leak test.

So…Do Plumbers Actually Hate This?

When someone asks, “Do Plumbers ACTUALLY Hate This?” here’s my straight answer:

• We don’t hate PEX. It’s a fantastic system when you respect its rules, choose the right version (A vs. B) for the task, and protect high‑flow paths.

• We don’t hate push‑to‑connect. They’re brilliant for serviceable transitions and tight spots, and they’re reliable when installed cleanly and fully seated. I still avoid burying them behind finished walls.

• We still love copper. For rigidity, spout drops, and abuse‑resistance, it’s tough to beat—and it looks sharp where it’s exposed.

If you’re a DIY‑minded homeowner or a new apprentice, the most “pro” thing you can do is slow down and build like it’s staying forever: square cuts, clean edges, depth marks, proper ring placement, supported fittings, and a thoughtful pressure‑up. That’s how you earn plumber‑level results with any system.

Conclusion

“Do plumbers hate this?” is the wrong question. The right question is: Does this installation respect the material and the water moving through it? Use PEX for speed and flexibility, copper for rigidity and full‑bore flow where it matters, and push‑to‑connect when you need a clean, serviceable tie‑in. Choose PEX‑A if you want expansion‑style, full‑ID fittings; stick with PEX‑B crimp/clamp when you value easy tools and budget starts. Crimp or clamp, brass or polymer—match the method to the job, and verify every joint.

If you follow the techniques in this guide—deburr, mark, seat, gauge, support, and pressurize smart—you’ll have a bathroom rough‑in that would make any plumber smile. No drama, no leaks, and no callbacks. That’s the goal, every single time.